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Abacca: (Musa textilis) A
plant grown in the Philippines that produces the
fiber used in the production of sisal and sinamay.
Abraham Lincoln: Abraham Lincoln’s
hat was a silk stovepipe (top hat)
which was made for him by George Hall of
Springfield, Illinois. He wore it because of the President’s lack of
interest in his appearance!
Ammana: Large wound turban worn by Muslim's.
Bandeau: A headband of material,
structured or unstructured.
Baseball cap: Cloth cap
with brim. Originally worn by baseball players ,now worn as a general leisure hat.
Beaver: A expensive felt hat made from felted
beaver fur.
Bearskin: A large furry
high crowned hat, which is part of a uniform worn by the Coldstream Guards
Beret: Cap made from felt, felted jersey or fabric with soft, wide, circular crown.
Best stuff: 19th century term for rabbit fur, including the
backs and the best parts of the sides mixed together.
Bicorne: Hat of the late 18th and early 19th century: wide brims were folded up to
form two points.
Biretta: Square cap worn by clergy the crown
has three or four projections.
Block: A wooden form used as a mould to shape, by hand a brim or
crown.
Blocking: Is the term used to describe the action of molding a hat shape.
Boater: Flat-topped hat with small flat
brim. traditionally, made of stiffened straw braid.
Bonnet: Women's
or girl's head-dress, with deep brim and ribbons to tie under the chin.
Bonnet rouge: Red cap worn during the French Revolution as a symbol of liberty.
Bowler: Oval
hat with round, rigid crown and a small, shaped, curved brim. Also known as a derby, because the style was
made popular by the Earl of Derby in 19th century England.
Breton: Women's hat with domed crown and brim turned-up all around.
Bridal veil: White or ivory veil worn during wedding ceremony.
Brim: Projecting edge of a hat.
Buckram: Stiff netting used to make hats. May be blocked or sewn. Once used by
milliners to make blocks for limited use.
Bumping: Term used for the process
of final felting of a hood, further compressing and felting of hoods done in a bumping
machine.
Calotte: A close-fitting
skull cap as worn by the Roman Catholic Clergy.
Canadian Mountie's Stetson: Official head-dress of the Royal Canadian Mounted
Police.
Canotier: Boater (French).
Cap: A hat with a small brim at the front.
Capeline: Roughly shaped crown and brim of felt or straw, to be blocked into hat
shape.
Carroting: Preliminary treatment of wool or fur with
acids, to curl the hairs. Produces a reddish-yellow colour which is the origin of the name.
Catherinette: French term for milliners. Named after St Catherine
the patron saint of milliners. The 27th of November is St Catherine's Day.
Caul: Historical term for a a
net or
close-fitting indoor head-dress,
or the plain back part of the same.
Cavalier hat: A wide-brimmed, plumed hat worn by cavaliers in the 17th century: the
right side of the brim was pinned up to the crown so that the wearer's sword arm could
move freely above the shoulder.
Chef's hat White, starched bonnet with tall crown . French
tradition states that a chef’s hat should have 100 pleats to represent the
number of different ways in which a great chef can prepare eggs.
Chira: Indian Turban
Cloche: Women's hat of the 1920's. Close-fitting round crown, with no brim or a
small flare at the brim edge.
Coalman hat: A short visor cap with a protective flap at the
back, derived from a hat worn by English coal deliverers to protect their backs from dust.
Cockade: Ornamental rosette of ribbon or cloth, worn on a hat
as a badge of office or as a decoration.
Cocked hat: An
old-fashioned three-cornered hat.
Cocktail hat: A small, often frivolous, hat for women, usually worn forward on the
head.
Coif: Head-cover worn by nuns as part of their habit, often
with long veils.
Cone: Conically shaped hood of felt or straw used as a base for blocking small hat
shapes or crowns.
Coolie hat: A shallow conical straw hat with a large brim to protect wearer from
the sun.
Coronet: Small crown worn by members of nobility as a symbol
of rank.
Cowboy hat: (see
ten gallon) Hat with high crown and wide brim, originally worn by cow hands.
Usually made of felt or leather.
Crown: Head-dress usually made of gold and worn as a symbol of sovereignty by
monarchs. Also see Rastafarian
Crown The top part of a hat.
Crush hat: A
collapsible opera hat.
Danbury Shakes See Mercury Poisoning
Deer stalker: A hunting cap with visors at the front and back, and ear-flaps that
can be tied up over the crown. Made famous by the fictional detective, Sherlock Holmes.
Derby: Another name for a Bowler hat.
Doff: The action of partially removing a hat
by males as a sign of respect
Diadem: A jeweled headband.
Easter bonnet: Women's hat: A new spring style to be worn at
Easter.
English driving cap: Low-profile cap, originally only for men, with small brim at
the front. Crown may be tailored with side panels, or gored.
Esparterie: A flat
sheet material used for the making of blocks and as a stiffening in the
construction of hats.
Feather head-dress: Ceremonial and symbolic head-cover worn
by chiefs of North American Indian tribes.
Fedora:
A
brimmed soft felt hat with a tapered crown that is dented lengthways. It
comes originally from the Austrian Tyrol and is named after FEDORA a
play by the French dramatist Victorien Sardou which was shown in Paris in
1882.
Felt: Cloth made from wool, fur or hair, compacted (felted) by rolling and
pressing, in the presence of heat and moisture.
Fez: Brimless, conical, flat-topped cap with a tassel attached at the top
center.
Men's head-cover, made of red felt, worn in Islamic cultures.
Fillet: A band for
the hair.
Fish tail: Ribbon with a decorative v-shape cut at the end.
Forage cap: Military cap with a small brim.
Fulling: Tumbling and pounding of cloth in hot water to
induce felting.
Fur felt: Any hood or capeline of felt made from fur fibers.
Gainsborough Hat: A high crowned big
brimmed
hat decorated with feathers and ribbons became popular in the 1780's
Garbo hat: Slouch hat.
(a soft, broad-brimmed hat)
Gaucho hat: A black felt hat with a wide flat brim and
shallow flat-topped crown.
Gibus: Collapsible top hat. [French, from the maker's name.]
Glengarry: Highlander's cap of thick-milled woolen cloth,
generally rising to a point in front, with ribbons hanging down behind
Hat: Item of dress worn on the head, from a word of Saxon
origin meaning hood.
Helmet: Protective or ceremonial head-cover: for soldiers.
Hennin: A high conical hat with a veil attached at the top,
worn by women during the 15th century.
Hijab: A
covering for a Muslim woman's head and face, sometimes reaching the ground, often accompanied by
the niqab (face veil).
Homburg: A man's
hat, made of felt, with a narrow upturned brim, and a depression in the
top.
First worn at Homburg, town in western Germany usually trimmed with
a band and bow.
Hood: Cone or capelin of felt or straw for making hats.
Horsehair: Hair
from a horse's mane or tail; a mass of such hairs; a fabric woven from
horsehair.
Jockey cap: Cloth cap with close-fitting 6-panel crown and
wide brim at the front.
Juliet Cap: A
round close-fitting skullcap worn by women. the style dates back to the Renaissance.
Jute Hood: Cone, capeline or sheet materiel made of jute fiber.
Kalpak:
A
triangular Turkish or Tatar felt cap.
Kippa: Skull-cap worn by Jewish men. Also known as yarmulke.
Kufie:
Islamic (Muslim) prayer cap.
Leuring lathe: Turntable with a block to support a felt hat.
The hat is placed on the block and, as it turns, it is then polished or "leured"
with a plush or velveteen pad, to impart a shine to the felt fibers, particularly on the
crown.
Liberty cap: Phrygian cap.
Mad Hatter: Famous character of Lewis Carroll's "Alice in Wonderland"
also see Mercury below.
Mercury Usage: Mercury
Nitrate was used to soften the thicker and coarser fur (guard hair) from a
rabbit or hare. This
was to make the finished felt hood as soft and fine as possible, before it
was made into a hat for the obvious reason that it would be of a higher
quality and price.
Mercury Poisoning: Mercury is acutely hazardous
as a vapor and in the form of its water-soluble salts, which corrode
membranes of the body. Chronic mercury poisoning, which occurs when small
amounts of the metal or its fat-soluble salts, particularly methyl
mercury, are repeatedly ingested over long periods of time, causes loss of memory,
irreversible brain, liver, and kidney damage. paralysis, mental
derangement and eventually death. In the United States it was referred to as
the Danbury shakes. Because of increasing water
pollution, significant quantities of mercury have been found in some
species of fish, which has aroused concern regarding uncontrolled
discharge of the metal into the environment. See these sites for more information:
www.cheminfonet.org/mercury1.htm
www.jtbaker.com/msds/m1508.htm
Mandel: A turban woven with silk
and gold.
Milliner: Artisan who makes and sells hats.
Millinery: The craft of making hats.
Mitre: A
high, pointed headdress, cleft crosswise on top and with two ribbons hanging
from the back. The right to wear the mitre belongs by law only to the pope,
the cardinals, and the bishops. Others require for its use a special papal
privilege. For a full description and history, click on this link: http://www.newadvent.org/cathen/10404a.htm
Mortarboard:
Flat,
square head-cover worn by professors and students for solemn academic occasions.
Nap: Short fibers extending above the surface of cloth,
fabric or felt, creating a soft, downy effect such as on velvet.
Night cap: Men's cap worn informally indoors from the 16th to
the 19th century. The cap had a deep crown made of four segments, with the edge turned up
to form a close brim.
Niqab: Face veil worn by Islamic women, together with the
hijab (head-cover).
Panama: The name given straw woven in Ecuador, as well as Peru and Colombia.
Panama hat: Straw hat made with panama straw .
Paper panama: Cone or capeline made of Japanese Toyo paper, woven to imitate natural Panama can be 1x1
or 2x2 weave.
Parasisal: A two over two weave of sisal fiber used to make cones and capelines.
Available in 5 grades, depending on the fineness of the fiber, it is lightweight,
resilient and takes dye well.
Peak: Visor.
Phrygian cap: Conical cap with the top bent forward, named
for an ancient people of Asia Minor. Worn as a symbol during the French Revolution, it is
now also known as the cap of liberty.
Picture hat: A hat with a very wide brim.
Pile: Nap.
Pillbox: A small brimless cap with a flat tip and cylindrical side.
Polo players in the Bois de Boulogne wore
pillboxes tied under their chins in the early 1900’s. This
hat became popular when Jackie Kennedy wore them. Clothes designer Halston
reinvented the pillbox worn by Greta Garbo in the 1932 film As You Desire
Me, especially
for Mrs Kennedy. Pillboxes can be
made in most types of fabric.
Pith helmet: Helmet of cork or pith (dried spongy tissue from the sola plant),
covered with cloth.
Planking: Rolling and heating the hoods to complete the
felting process.
Plug Hat:
See Top Hat
Plush: (Hatters Plush) Cloth of silk or cotton, with a longer and softer nap
than velvet.
Plush hats: Men's hat, usually Top Hats of plush, an imitation of napped beaver
hats.
Pom-pom: Pompon a fluffy or woolly ball, tuft, or tassel.
Pompon: Pompon a fluffy or woolly ball, tuft, or tassel.
Pouncing: Rubbing down the outside of felt hats with pumice
stone, sand paper or emery paper to produce a very smooth surface.
Puritan: Black felt hat with high conical crown and narrow
straight brim, worn by the Puritans during the 17th century. It was usually trimmed with a
buckle at the front.
Raffia: A natural straw from Madagascar, the
Raffia palm or its leaf-bast. available in cones, capelines, braids and hanks.
Raising card: Small wired instrument to raise nap on
felt.
Rastafarian
Hat: The Rastafarian hat is called
a "Crown" and has religious significance, the knitted version is
usually colored red, yellow and green, the colour of the Ethiopian flag.
Royal Ascot: The world famous English horse race meeting at
Ascot, dating from the early 18th century, is particularly renowned for Ladies' Day, a
unique occasion and setting to flaunt the most spectacular hats.
Rush: Capeline made of a stiff thick straw, usually left its natural green
colour.
Shako: A
tall, nearly cylindrical military cap with a plume, flat-topped.
Sinamay: a plant grown in the Philippines the
fibers are woven
into sheet or hood forms.
Sisal Comes from the fiber
of the Abacca (Musa
textilis) and is used
to make cones, capelines and woven fabric.
Sisal
hood: Cone or
capeline of sisal fiber made with a one over one weave.
Skull-cap: Small, close-fitting cap of fabric.
Skimmer: (see
Boater)
Slouch hat: A soft hat with a high crown and drooping
flexible brim. Also called a Garbo hat, from the name of the actress who worn this style
in many films.
Smoking cap: Men's pillbox shape cap, worn during the 19th
century to prevent the hair from smelling of tobacco.
Snap brim:
A brim
that turns down sparingly.
Snood: A
band for the hair, once worn by unmarried women in Scotland as the badge
of virginity; an ornamental hairnet supporting the back of a woman's hair.
Sombrero: Mexican hat with high, conical crown and very wide brim. Usually of straw
or felt.
Spartre: (see Esparterie
)
St. Catherine of Alexandria: Patron saint of milliners in
France, + c. 307 A.D., celebrated November 2th.
St. Clement I: 3rd Bishop of Rome, + c. 100 A.D. Patron saint
of hatters in England, celebrated November 23. By tradition, the discoverer of felt.
Stiffening: Originally gum Arabic, mucilage, shellac or gelatin, now
superseded by cellulose or pva based chemicals. It is applied by hand or dipped, to
stiffen felt or straw.
Stocking cap: Knitted cap, usually conical, often finished
with a pompon.
Stovepipe hat: A tall 19th century top hat, made popular by
U.S. President Abraham Lincoln.
Suede felt: Fur felt hood or capeline with short nap: surface
texture resembles suede.
Tam o'shanter: Beret with close-fitting headband, usually
trimmed with a pompon.
Ten-gallon hat: (see
cowboy hat) A good description of this hat supplied courtesy
of www.clearwaterhats.com
"The phrase "ten-gallon hat" is a bit of folksy humor which
is often carried out through exaggeration. The 1880's saw the crowns of
hats get taller and larger, but by the 1920's even those hats seemed
smaller by comparison. The movies were coming in to great vogue in the
20's, and on-screen stars wanted to appear larger than life. As in most
things, the rest of the people followed their lead to enormous hats. Hence
the epithet "ten-gallon hat" to show its size could hold ten
gallons of water. Like all folklore, no one knows who originated the
phrase, but it stuck. The Stetson Company put out an advertising poster
showing a cowboy watering his horse out of his hat. The phrase plays upon
that, or the poster plays upon the phrase, I'm not sure which. That would
be easy to figure by dating the poster."
Or the other explanation: Almost proverbial is
the ten-gallon hat worn by Americans in the "Old West,"
particularly so in Texas. Its description is taken to refer to its
enormous size, which would conform with all the other Texan superlatives.
The implication, of course, is that the hat was so large that
it could be filled with ten gallons of liquid. This is an error due
to a linguistic "mix-up." In this case the gallon
is not the unit of capacity, but the Spanish 'galon'
for "braid." The hat is not Texan at all
but stems from Mexico. When Spaniards occupied the
country, they wore sombreros because the wide brims protected
their faces from the burning sun. Spaniards' love of beauty made
them embellish this utilitarian brim with braid. The more of it they
used the happier they were. Some men thus wore a hat with ten different
braids. Very accurately and without exaggeration, it was a 'ten
galon hat'. When the Americans adopted the Spanish
head covering, they acquired its Spanish name as
well. Continuing to call it a ten gal(l)on hat, the Spanish
('galon') braid was soon misunderstand and mistaken for the liquid
measure. This created the ten-gallon hat. source"Websters World
Encyclopedia 1999"
Tip: The top part of the crown.
Top hat: Man's
tall cylindrical hat with a narrow brim, made of silk plush. Also see:
Abraham Lincoln. Very early top hats were made of beaver felt. Also called
a "Plug Hat" in the USA.
Toque:
French term for
a chef's tall white
hat.
Toque: Small hat for a woman, close-fitting brimless or nearly
brimless hat.
Tricorne: Men's hat of the 18th century: wide brims were folded up to form three
points.
Trilby:The
Trilby is a soft felt hat, usually made of fur felt (rabbit) it has a
dented crown and flexible brim, the shape originates from the Austrian
Tyrol it usually had a small feather trimming.
The hat became most popular between the 1930s-40s when Schiaparelly used
it to compliment clothes design. The name come from
the heroine of G.du Maurier's novel Trilby 1894 in which the
heroine of the stage version, wore such a hat.
Tuque: A
Canadian cap made by tucking in one tapered end of a long cylindrical bag,
closed at both ends.
Turban: Typical head-dress for Muslim and Sikh men, constructed by winding a long
scarf around the head.
Turban: Women's head-dress resembling men's turbans.
Vanities:
15th century
British term for hats.
Veil: A
covering of fine fabric or net, for the head, face, or both, for protection,
concealment, adornment or ceremonial purpose, especially the white
transparent one often worn by a bride
Velour felt: Fur felt hood or capeline with uniform nap and
velvet-like surface texture.
Visca: Cone or capeline of rayon fiber, made to look like parrasisal with a 1x1 or
2x2 weave.
Visor: A partial brim, usually extending out at the front of a
hat or cap. Also known as a peak used as a shade against the
sun .
Wheat Straw single or double: A stiff coarse straw, usually left its natural golden
brown colour. Single wheat is 1x1 weave double wheat is 2x2 weave.
Widow's peak: A close-fitting cap with a point extending down
at the center of the forehead. Originally worn as a mourning bonnet by Caterina de Medici.
Also a point of hair over the forehead, like the cusped front of the widow's
cap formerly worn.
Willow: A woven and sized material made of esparto grass and
cotton, used for making the base of fashion hats. Also known as esparterie and
spartre.
Wimple: A veil
folded so as to cover the head and neck and closely frame the cheeks, a
fashion of the Middle Ages that remained part of a nun's dress
Xian: Capeline made of an oriental straw.
Yarmulke: The
skullcap worn by Jewish males, especially during prayers or ceremonial
occasions. Also known as kippah.
Zucchetto:
Skull-cap worn by Roman Catholic clergy: black for priests,
purple for bishops, red for cardinals, white for the pope.
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